Nasveti in napotki ter povpraševanja...
 
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RedBaron
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EPC+CHECK CENGINE

Napisal/-a RedBaron Po feb 08, 2021 7:37 pm

Pozdravljeni!

Na seat Altea 1.2 TSI 105 KM CBZB, prevoženih 180 kkm, se je prižgala lučka EPC + check engine, avto je šel v safe mode. Napaka je P334A in naj bi bil problem aktuator turbine (wastegate, če smo natančni) in res se ni premikall.

Aktuator sem demontiral, očistil (ni bilo kaj dosti za čistit), ter namazal štangico s temp. obstojno mastjo. Ima pa dokaj veliko zračnosti (puša v ohišju).
Sestavim nazaj in zadeva je delovala 1 cel dan :)

Nato pa ista zgodba. Bega me to, ker če počakaš, da lučke ugasnejo in ga vžgeš, ostaneta prižgani EPC in check engine, avto je v safe modu, če pa ga vžgeš brez čakanja, da ugasnejo lučke, pa gori samo check engine in avto gre normalno. tudi aktuator se premika.

Ima kdo izkušnje s tem? Menite, da bo menjava aktuatorja rešila problem?
 
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Ivan36
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Re: EPC+CHECK CENGINE

Napisal/-a Ivan36 To feb 09, 2021 8:36 am

Poglej po teh navodilih ... je pa to kar pogosta napaka ...
FIX FOR P334A ISSUE…

Having had a couple of 1.2 TSI cars that have demonstrated this fault and investigated further, it seems there’s a design flaw with the turbo actuators on this engine (located just to the right of the exhaust heatshield and mounted on the turbo). The internal position sensor’s plastic slides wear out and this extra slop allows the moving part of the sensor to become jammed at a self-locking angle to the fixed housing. To remedy this:

1. Purchase a 5 lobe security star drive set from Screwfix for about £20 to enable you to undo the 3 anti-tamper screws on the actuator. You'll also need some plastic grease (brake calliper grease will be fine) and spray on lube (must be high temperature & plastic compatible such as silicone or PTFE based - metal lubes may kill the plastics!!).

2. Undo the electrical connector on the actuator by pushing down on the jack whilst gently lifting the tab on the right (fingernails work best if you have them long enough but be careful as these connectors are notorious for becoming brittle and snapping. If this happens you’ll need a small zip tie to hold the connector together when you’re finished). When you see the clip release you can then lift off the jack.

3. Undo the 3 anti-tamper screws (receiving holes circled in picture in picture - two at the top and one slightly hidden at the bottom towards the front of the car) being careful not to drop them.

Actuator 1.jpg
Slika

4. Separate the two main halves of the actuator by sliding the black plastic housing to the right. It has runners to keep everything aligned so you'll need to slide it a good distance before it's fully separated but there should be room in the engine bay to do so.

5. Using a small flathead screwdriver, lift the retaining tab up from the top of the position sensor (circled in image) and the moving part of the sensor should now spring away from the housing but still be retained by the spring.

Actuator 2.jpg
Slika

6. Use your plastic compatible grease to lubricate the slides on either side of both the moving parts and housing of the sensor being very careful not to stress & deform the spring. Also grease the boss the spring sits on and then re-clip the moving part back into the housing.

7. Use your plastic compatible grease to lubricate the teeth on all the gears on the other half of the actuator (i.e. the sub-assembly remaining mounted on the car). Ask a friend to hold a small mirror and a torch and spray your plastic compatible lube around the metal slide and spring parts to the left of the gears as you won’t be able to get grease on there with it still being mounted in the car due to access.

8. Ensure the motor connector o-rings are clean and use your plastic compatible grease to lube them.

9. For good measure you can use some battery terminal grease on the motor connector prongs to ensure good conductivity.

10. Reassemble the actuator and reconnect the electrical jack.

11. Turn you ignition on full (no need to start engine) and check whether the actuator is making a high pitched tone. If it is, disconnect and reconnect the jack a few times until this stops to reset the motor.

12. Clear your fault codes as the car should now be fixed.

13. Enjoy not having to pay for a new turbo to be fitted which is the default procedure for this fault at a main dealer.

It should be noted this error is different to the closely related P334B error code which reflects a mechanical problem with the turbo bypass valve becoming obstructed.

https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/thread ... 4a.426410/
 
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RedBaron
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Re: EPC+CHECK CENGINE

Napisal/-a RedBaron To feb 09, 2021 10:17 am

OK, v bistvu sem naredil točno to, RAZEN točke 11...

Bom ga še 1× razstavil in namazal še senzor - sem zamenjal zvezdaste 5 krake vijake z navadnimi križnimi, tako da lahko snamem samo tale plastični elektro del. Potem pa bom probal še tole "kalibracijo".
 
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RedBaron
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Re: EPC+CHECK CENGINE

Napisal/-a RedBaron To feb 09, 2021 5:30 pm

Sem še enkrat razstavil in očistil senzor, ter ga namazal... Je precej boljše, lučke so ugasnile, avto gre normalno, ni pa 100% zanesljivo, ker se občasno še vedno prižge EPC...

Očitno bo treba novega :-?
 
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Ivan36
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Re: EPC+CHECK CENGINE

Napisal/-a Ivan36 To feb 09, 2021 6:02 pm

Men je Sharanu sam MAF hecal pa je svetil EPC kar je pod črto pomenilo kar 16 napak oziromo možnosti :shock: :DDD :lol: Sme pol našel način kako rešiti MAF ako še ni odpovedal nalil uni santarni alkohol v vrečko za vlagan je in ga not potopil za 5 minut in lepo opral .. Tako je delal še 4 leta :lol: na Espace smo ga morali pa menjat, ker je pa bil v okvari zaradi tiste izolacije ko se je odlepila od ohišja zračenga filtra in zamašila pretok zraka :roll: :evil: .. Upam, da boš rešil brez menjave delov ... Daj še vse napake pobrisat z VCDS ,,,
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