Kako grdo foušija udari iz ljudi. Trenutno je edini racionalni avto v SLO Renault 4GTL, ki gre največ 130 na uro. Ampak tisti Audiji, BMW-ji, Mercedesi in Passati, ki so tudi overkill z performansami vam pa ne gredo na jetra? Pri Nissanu je potrebno pogledati, zakaj pedal prijemlje šele pod vrhom, na tak način skuriš vsako sklopko. Če je hidravlična je pravi naslov PTE iz Münchna, ki dela master in slave cilindre za vse avte. Če je res šla sklopka se poišče (naroči) kaj od LUK-a (Euroton). Imam še dvakrat bolj zapleteno sklopko, pa sem speljal s 500€ z materialom in delom. Pri meni je potrebno še odmikanje podvozja zaradi avtomatskih ravnalnih sistemov aktivnega podvozja tipa WRC, motor je pa 3.0/24V. Res pa šraufam pri vrhunskem mojstru na skednju.

Lahko ti dam dva predloga:

Najprej se pozanimaj na forumu kje je nekdo ki bi ti znal zamenjavo oz vgradnjo sklopke vrhunsko narest; grem stavit da bo tudi cenejše kot uradni servis; kdo pa pravi da so na uradnih servisih ful sposobni btw?

Kot drugo preglejte kaj je dejansko narobe s sklopko in ali se jo da reparirati recimo pri Sinter. Kolega je imel turbo hondo z isto konji kot ti; ko so je prvič po konverziji vozil je serijsko sklopko skuril kot za šalo ker je bilo toliko moči odenkrat, za kar pa ni bila tovarniško narejena. Potem je odnesel zadevo k Sinterju in so mu tako poštimali, da je tip dobre 2 leti hodil na drag pokale, pa tudi tip vozi kot divjak. Motor je sedaj naštimal nazaj na N/A + 100 shota nitro, ampak sklopka še vedno drži in drži...

to nabav http://gtmotorsports.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1 .
Ce zdrzis se ene dva mesca, ti jo lahka jst prinesem, bo cena se majckeno nizja cca 200$.
vec na pm.
lp

ce te ne skrbi da se sosed na tvojmu avtu uci sklopko menat pol ni panike (ker mocno dvomim da je ze sraufal tak avto). lahko se pa motim pa je sklopko zamenat tamau problem oziroma je ze menjal sklopko na 350z... ce se ti splaca...

edit: sem mislu da so te zverine drazje pa vidm da ga dobis ze za manj kot 20 jurjov tko da te mogoce razumem da ti je jurja za servis tezko dat...

Veš kaj me skrbi ... da na uradnih servisih ne šraufajo Z-ja pogosto. Klical sem na 2 servisa v Mabirobu, in samo pri enem so 1x menjali sklopko na Z-ju.
Malo sem bral tuje forume in se folku problemi s sklopko pogosto dogajajo. Baje bi naj bila originalna sklopka problem, ker jo folk menjuje na 20000 al pa 30000 km. Večina jih priporoča da daš noter kako "alter part" sklopko, ki je pač kvalitetnejša.
NI mi problem dat 1000€, problem pa mi je to dat če se mi bo čez cca 30000km zgodilo isto. Raje dam za sklopko 50% več kot stane originalna, pa nekomu ki se spozna na športne avtomobile, pa mu plačam 2x več kot on dejansko dobi pri delodajalcu!
Se pravi da je moj point v tem, da če poznaš nekega dobrega mehanika, ti za isti dnar zmontira noter boljšo sklopko.

sosedu se je enako zgodilo. servisiru je v italiji nekje, 50k km je naredu od takrat brez problemov. ga bom uprasal kje. samo zdj je v braziliji nekje, rabis nujno?

ja sej obstajajo pravi majstri avteke recimo tuki v okolici CE en šraufa večinoma audije, vw (by the way za avtomatike, bi lahk reku da jih več zrihta k servis) am pa vidu da je šraufu tud že menjalnik corvette C6, pa hummer, tk da verjetn za nisana sklopko zamenjat nebi bil kak problem... sej to ni neki groznga

nemorš verjet kakšna favšija je med slovenci

Changing out a clutch in the 350z is not a small task although it is similar to most RWD cars. You’ll need your usual hand tools, preferably air tools, torque wrench, transmission jack, jack stands, a few special tools, etc… How quick and easy depends how mechanically inclined you are and how much effort your willing to invest.

If you mangle or botch the install it’s no one else’s fault but your own, having a shop do it will at least give you the option or path to a warranty claim. The going rate is about 300 – 500 dollars and the decision is up to you. I take no responsibility for any injuries or damages if you decide to do this yourself… with that being said here what needs to be done.

1. Secure vehicle with jack stands, I went as high as my jack could go. This is very important and probably the most crucial, people have been crushed, so be careful. Don’t do this on inclined driveway! I will say its bee-yotch lying on your back, wish I had a lift.

2. Disconnect the battery.

3. I’m running the borla exhaust and I had to loosen it all up to let the driveshaft drop. I removed the first pieces/hpipe after the cats. Mine had seized and had to use some big pipe wrench vise grips to twist it loose. I imagine the stock exhaust removal should be much easier.

4. Remove the brace connecting the two cats, I also removed the passenger side o2 sensor to give me more room as I’m using those non-fouler extensions.

5. Remove driveshaft bolts and slide it out, set it aside.

6. Remove all electronic connectors, use a small flat head screwdriver like the ones used to tighten reading glasses. You don’t want to break any of the clips. Make sure you get all of cable management clips and brackets that are clipped on. Using curved needle nose pliers helps. You don’t want anything attached to the trans.

7. Remove the rear splash guard.

8. Remove starter bolts and move it out of the way leaving the cabling intact. (make sure the battery is disconnected, you don’t want a short here)

9. Remove the clutch master cylinder and move it to the side. Make a habit of putting the bolts back in place to help you remember where they all go.

10. Remove the shifter from inside the car, twist off the knob and after removing the plastic boot area cover remove all the bolts underneath. Go back under the car and remove the 12 mm bolt holding the shifter in place. It will pop out.

11. Remove the small sheet metal brace under the transmission.

12. Start loosening all the bolts to the engine. Make sure you can get to all of them, they will be tight. There was one bolt on top that required me to remove a small bracket that was in the way.

13. Once they are loose you can begin positioning the tranny jack, it was it a little tricky to actually tighten the band, its optional and it helps, just try your best. The center of gravity is towards the back of the transmission.

14. Begin removing the crossmember bolts; don’t let the transmission just hang by the input shaft.

15. Remove all the bolts and start pulling the transmission out. Again make sure nothing is attached. Be careful as you start lowering it as it could tilt back and begin dripping oil out the output shaft like it did onto me. Lower the trans all the way and it roll it back.

16. I used an impact wrench to remove the pressure plate bolts. Be careful and ready to catch it here as you don’t want it to fall on your face.

17. Using a t-55 torx bit remove the flywheel. I used the impact wrench again. This one is heavy too so be ready.

18. Now there is one small little piece left, the pilot bushing. Most clutch sets include this so you might as well change it. The service manual says to use a special tool, use it if you have it. I used an old trick to get this guy out, fill in the hole with some thick grease and with the clutch alignment tool begin tapping it into the hole, (I removed the plastic ring on mine). Eventually the pressure from the grease will pop it out.

19. Now go back to the transmission remove the retaining clip and remove the throwout bearing from the input shaft.

20. Use a gear puller to remove the bearing from the sleeve. Now here is the tricky part, I couldn’t figure out how to hold the center section of the puller in place. I just happen to find a thick washer that fit perfectly into the center of the sleeve.

21. Wipe off all the grease from the crankshaft to begin installing the pilot bushing. The pilot bushing is soft brass so care must be taken when taping it in. I used a socket and a rubber mallet. Make sure it feels smooth on the inside and that its pushed in straight all the way in.

22. Press the new throwout bearing on to the sleeve. The manual says to use a press, I used a vise, I flipped the serrated jaws to have a smooth surface to squeeze with. This is crucial, don’t mark up the bearing’s surface and make sure it goes on straight.

23. Install throwout bearing assembly on to the input shaft; use the clip to secure the clutch fork. I put a little grease on the bearing’s face, the clutch fork and just a tiny wipe on the splines and input shaft.

24. The JWT flywheel has two timing holes and was clearly marked which one to use on 350z. Make sure you use the right one, although its lighter than stock you don’t want to drop it on your face. Hand tighten all the bolts.

25. I don’t have the tool to prevent the flywheel from turning and resorted to using a ½ ratchet on the crank pulley with a long pipe/breaker bar holding it in place. If I had more time I’d invest or fab up something better. The pipe was touching the ground as I tightened the bolts to 90 foot lbs. I then followed the instructions to loosen, add red loctite and torque back down to 93 lbs.

26. I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with some carburetor cleaner and some clean shop rags. You don’t want any and I repeat any type of grease or oil on the flywheel or pressure plate. Make sure it’s clean, put the clutch disk and hold it in place with the alignment tool.

27. Bolt on the pressure plate, it took a few attempts for me to guess where the alignment dowels go. There are other holes on the flywheel that will not work. Tighten down to 25 foot lbs, remove alignment tool.

28. Now the fun part, putting the transmission back in. It has to go straight in and you must be careful no to damage the pilot bushing. Twist it and push it in as much as possible, don’t bang it in, be patient. If the transmission is gear try turning the output shaft or turn the engine over with a ratchet to try and get the splines to line up. I couldn’t push mine all the way in but I made sure the splines were in before I began to bolt it up. I used the bolts to bring in the last 1/2 inch.

29. Bolt the crossmember in place and begin tightening all the bolts. Torque down to about 55 lbs for the big 17mm bolts and about 37 lbs for the smaller 14mm bolts.

30. Install starter and tighten down bolts also to about 37lbs.

31. Reinstall clutch master cylinder, tighten bolts. Whenever your working with aluminum don’t ever go over board, you don’t want to strip the threads.

32. Now it’s just a matter of putting everything back together the way you found it.

33. I had to top off the transmission oil since I spilled some. You’ll need a 10mm allen bit to take out the plug.

34. Make sure the shifter goes into all the gears before putting the knob/boot. You might need to re-align it.

35. Connect battery.

EVO NAVODILA , LP

Tako ... avto je popravljen. Odločil sem se da in dal avto popravljat pri privat mehaniku, ki se pač ukvarja s popravili avtomobilov (tudi športnih) tako privat kot v službi.
Pri nas se da za ta avto dobit le originalna sklopka (kolikor sem se sam pozanimal). Cena le te je bila cca 430€. Zraven je treba še prištet olje za menjalnik (50€) in delo (200€).
Če povzamem, so bili stroški za cca 350€ nižji kot na uradnjem servisu.
Pa še nekaj o obrabljeni sklopki. Ko sem kupoval avto sem opazil da je sklopka zelo trda, vendar nisem vedel da je to znak obrabljenosti (pač nisem iz te stroke). Srečo sem imel, da ni bil poškodovan še vztrajnik, saj je njegova cena cca 2000€.

Skratka .. zahvaljujem se vsem ki ste mi pomagali z nasveti!