kaj noben nič ne ve al kaj?

Mal več od dveh ur bo pa že treba počakat!!!

premišljujemo pa obratni ti ne morjo past na 0 k bi avto crknu,a se ti kaj takrat zaganja al kako,zadevo bi blo treba videt...

na gorenjskem je za subaruje servis v šenčurju avtohiša kadivec

Imam Subaru Justy 1.0 redno servisiran l92. Ima avtomatski zavg.
V petek sem opazu da ko spustim gas mi enostavno obrate da na 0 obr/min..potem nekaj preklopi (se mi zdi da rele ker se tko tudi sliši) in obrati so normalni! (pazi!! avto ko prižgem ima obrate normalno nastavljene na 900obr/min). Isti problem se pojavi tudi pri prestavljanju.
Za kratko zasveti lučka Check engine, po preklopu pa ugasne.

Obratomer za kratek čas zabije na 0 obr/min crkne pa ne - med vožnjo.
Nazadnje sem probaval speljat na samem dvorišču pa mi ni ratalo kljub temu da sem mel obrate na 3000 (speljeval v rikverc) - enosstavno mu je obrate ruknu na 0 in to je blo vse. Zdelo se mi je tudi da je nekam trda sklopka.

Je imel že kdo podoben problem??
Kje je kakšen dober servis na gorenjskem za SUBARUJE?

mojstri, a kdo kej ve?

dojaja je napisal/-a:mojstri, a kdo kej ve?

Jst sm ti tole našel!

Lets take a 1994 Subaru Justy 3 cylinder that we repaired as an example. This customer reported that each morning after being parked all night, the vehicle would crank but would not start. The customer went on to say that if the vehicle were cranked a second or third time the car would start and be fine for the rest of the day. We had to keep this vehicle for a total of six days because the symptom window was so short and the time between windows was so long. What made matters worse was the fact that on three of the days the car started fine with no problem. Nothing to test on those three days! To make a long story short, we were able to compile some interesting test data from several of the mornings when the car would not start for that first minute. When a car has a starting problem like this we generally install a spark tester on one of the plug wires and we disconnect one of the fuel injectors and plug in a noid light. Generally speaking, if the car will neither spark nor run the noid light we start leaning towards a crank sensor system problem. Hence you begin your differential diagnosis. (Don't forget that some cars with a snapped timing belt will show up as no spark and no illuminated noid light). We found that while cranking their was no spark and no flashing noid light. So now your thinking...timing belt or crank sensor right? Well, not exactly. The solution became a lot closer when I was sitting in the vehicle staring at the dash with the key on one morning after the car would not start. While sitting their I heard a relay "ping" and at that moment I noticed the check engine lamp popped on and I heard the fuel pump run its two second prime. The lamp should have been on as soon as the key was turned on for the bulb test but it came on about one minute after the key had been on. Referring to Figs. 1 and 2 we could see in the schematic that the power for the ECM, check engine light, coil, igniter, and the fuel pump came from what Subaru calls the "ignition relay". The relay is a "dual contact relay" in which one contact sends power to the coil and the igniter while the other contact sends power to the ECM, check engine light and fuel pump relay. We decided to hook up a volt meter to monitor the that relay. When the car would not start the next morning our volt meter showed that the one of the contacts in the relay, (wire WB), was fine as the ignition coil had its 12 volt supply. The other contact in the relay, (wire R) did not have power. This side of the relay supplies power to the ECM and the fuel pump relay. A simple tap on the relay and the power was their. A new relay resolved the problem. Most of us don't think to bother looking at the check engine light on a car that "cranks and won't run" but I have forced myself to make it a habit. We recently had a late model Ford Explorer where the customer had an intermittent "cranks won't run" complaint. Upon initial inspection of the vehicle, one of the first things I noticed was that the check engine light was not on at key on. A simple tap on the PCM relay in the underhood relay center put the check engine light on and the fuel pump was heard making its two second prime. I guess now I could say I solved this with a little luck and past experience. Another faulty relay.

Vem... cel roman.
Ampak če nardim kratek summary iz tega... Kriv je bil rele... ni imel stika... posledično se je prižigala check engine lučka.... V glavnem.. članek nakazuje na zanič rele k vklaplja črpalko za gorivo oz. neki v tej smeri....
Sorry za tak prevod.. ampak ura je pozna pa to...

Sine na servisu bojo ziher vedli kak pa kaj

najprej preberi kodo napake ki jo javlja lučka check engine;

to nardiš tko kot piše tule http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.htm
oz. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ - tu najdeš tudi kode za Justyja (prvi link ma kode za Legacy I in II)

koristno je pobrisat memorijo (zbrišeš stare napake) - postopke maš opisane zgoraj, se vozit par dni in še enkrat prebrat kode; ko vidiš kje škripa, ukrepaš naprej.

Kje bi lahko priklopil da pogledam kode (mogoče kakšen kabel in podobno?)

ne potrebuješ kabla - natančno sledi navodilom, ki jih najdeš na zgornjih linkih;

kodo prebereš po mižikanju lučke check engine - dolgi mižiki - desetice, kratki - enice...

no v glavnem je bil kriv "precvikan" kabel na ferteilerju in prst

prst?

GorazdO je napisal/-a:prst?

To bo kar rotor(ček) razdelilnika vžiga.

Lp,

Marky

GorazdO je napisal/-a:prst?

Prstan se temu reče ja