The Bottom Line This manual provides and explains the workings of many techniques that are used on real roads in any weather condition. Track racing is a special form of racing. One races on a smooth, usually wide somewhat twisty track, usually on a dry, warm and bright day. Conditions could not provide more of a challenge of a persons true motoring skills! Right?

The Bottom Line This manual provides and explains
the workings of many techniques that are used on real roads in any weather
condition.
Track racing is a special form of racing. One races on a smooth, usually
wide somewhat twisty track, usually on a dry, warm and bright day. Conditions
could not provide more of a challenge of a persons true motoring skills!
Right?
As if! This manual is not about racing on tracks. Tracks are, by their
nature, un-natural, clinical - not at all like those real world conditions.
Real world conditions are far more demanding than any track. They are
unpredictable, unstable, changing weather and climate. Roads that may
suddenly be iced down, gravel, mud - everything. Real roads can be as
narrow as the car, with hairpins and outrageous turn combinations.
The premier motorsport that deals with these conditions is called Performance
Rallying - or just Rally Racing for short. Rally means to race on closed
down stretches of challenging public roads, real roads. There is no
question that these drivers have the very best vehicle control and racing
skills on earth, for no other motorsport is as similar to real world
conditions and cars such as these. Do you want to learn about the tricks,
the driving techniques used in these motorsports? They work just fine
with normal cars, after all. Rally cars are not specified as any type
of car, they can be anything.
This manual assumes you know the concepts of under, neutral and over
steer, braking before entering a corner and not inside it and the difference
between ABS and non ABS brakes. Nothing in this guide is suitable for
truck vehicles such as SUV's and should never be attempted due to roll-over
risk.
SPEED KILLS - YOU DO NOT NEED TO DRIVE FAST TO HAVE FUN

You know the law. These techniques are not compatible with safe disciplined
driving.


Under Steer is the Main Obstacle
A tire that rolls free always has the most possible grip, for it offers
no resistance to rolling. As such, a tire that is not spinning will
always provide the best grip. This is true for turning as well as accelerating.
So gripping through a turn should be the fastest way. There is just
one problem - the worse grip gets the more the car will under steer
- the inability to turn the car properly. It might seem paradoxical
that driving in the way that gives the most grip would be slower around
a corner. Despite driving in the way that gives the best grip, all cars
will show exaggerated under steer tendencies when overall grip is worse
than dry pavement.
The more slippery it gets, the worse the under steer. To turn properly
speed must be lowered to compensate. If under steer could be countered,
then cornering speeds could be higher. As such, most driving techniques
are about overcoming this under steer and relate to changing the direction
of movement.
Over steer is not much an issue with the skill levels required to perform
these techniques. If you can do these tricks, you will have learned
to have good enough car control to counter the over steer.
There are two ways to overcome this under steer. For front wheel drive
cars, there is only one proper technique, and it is called left-foot
braking. For all wheel drive and rear wheel drive drive trains there
is the power slide.


..Not Always the Case
On clear paved roads in general, under steer is not much of an issue
in a well tuned car. Attempting to use a power slide will wear out the
tires extremely fast as well as wasting perfectly good traction that
could have been used for getting around the corner with faster speed.
Left-foot braking will still work to some extent, but will hardly be
necessary.
Do not to become obsessed with the idea of that one needs to power
slide around every turn. During less severe turns gripping works better.
During short, but perhaps somewhat severe turns, it is enough to merely
provoke some over steer to get through at highest possible speed, without
initiating a power slide.
As a rule of thumb: The less grip, the more fancy driving techniques
are needed to counter.


Power Sliding / Drifting
No doubt the most popular and spoken of technique in the past years,
due to exposure to Japanese cartoon Initial D, Japanese drifting contests
(through the import scene) and perhaps even through the exposure to
performance rallies in the media. The cartoon Initial D revolves around
Japanese street racers who race in the dry twisty paved roads in the
mountains at night, where drifting, basically driving somewhat sideways
in corners, is the explained to be the fastest way through a corner.
This is not true, and then no wonder there are myths regarding this
technique.
In a RWD car - Works by applying more power than grip allows to the
rear tires. This creates wheel spin, which is a loss of traction (to
some extent). Lateral grip is reduced and the rear will have worse lateral
grip than the front in a RWD car, causing some over steer. The nose
of the car thus is aimed more inward in the turn than normal. Yet the
car does not travel in the direction of the nose, but slides sideways.

Depending on how much the tire is forced to rotate differently from
the ground, it will gain or lose traction. More wheel spin equals less
traction and more over steer. So in order to succeed with a power slide
in a rear wheel drive car the driver must balance the throttle. If too
much throttle is applied, the rear will slide out further than 45 degrees
(or whatever the maximum turning of the front wheel is) from the direction
of travel which results in spinning out. Not enough throttle and the
rear will regain grip and under steer might cause the car to go off
the road.
The driver must counter steer the front of the car in the direction
of travel or the rear end will overtake the front without any possibility
of recovery, causing a spin out.
In an AWD car - Same principles as the RWD but with many advantages.
Not just the rear wheels are slipping, but the front too, and as all
four tires have the same diminished grip the rear will not try to overtake
the front. This means there is no need to steer the front in the direction
of travel. A slipping wheel still has grip, just not as good as when
rotating with the same speed as the ground beneath it. When sliding
sideways in an AWD car, it will pull twice as hard in the direction
of the nose than an RWD. Also it is completely steerable by the front
wheels.
As the wheels are constantly spinning faster than the ground, the car
may be turned more than 45 degrees from the direction of travel, for
the front wheels, while not aligned properly, can still change the angle
of the car as long as it isn't sliding backward. Yes, one can even correct
when the car is pointing over 90 degrees off the direction of travel!
Therefore spinouts pose nearly no risk.
The advantages of all wheel drive become much larger in racing the
more slippery it gets. Not only is it more stable and dynamic, It can
go through slippery corners at much higher speed than any other drive
train and extract itself from corners with mind boggling speeds.


Too Much Traction
Initiating a power slide is the hardest part to succeed with. Rear
wheel drive has the easiest chance of succeeding as all the engine power
is concentrated on only two wheels, whereas all wheel drive has four
wheels that share the engine power. If there is not enough power then
it might not be possible to initiate wheel spin by turning and powering
on the throttle alone.
The only other alternative is to use advanced driving techniques to
provoke the car into wheel spin. These tricks are nearly always necessary
on AWD in to break traction as the natural tendency for AWD is under
steer. Simply turning and powering will mostly result in ploughing nearly
straight.
The process of provoking a slide is called to destabilize the car.



The Technique Library


Left-Foot Braking
Applies To: FWD

Usage: Eliminates under steer, achieving neutral steer or even over
steer.

Theory of Operation: The front wheels are unaffected by the braking
as the engine keeps them moving, so their traction is good. The rear
wheels are progressively braked which induces resistance to rolling.
Worse lateral grip on the rear tires are achieved, making the whole
car happier to turn.

Instructions: Upon entering a turn, turn in as usual using the steering
wheel. Use your left foot to apply the brakes progressively. Depending
on engine power, you will probably need to apply more throttle to maintain
speed. The higher the braking applied the larger the effect.

Notes: The more slippery the surface and higher the speed, the more
the effect. Highly dependant on engine power and tuning. Most cars are
tuned for front brake bias for under steer (which is considered safest
for passenger cars) makes it harder to use. Wears the brakes faster
than normal, the front pair in particular.


Pendulum
Applies To: RWD and AWD.

Usage: Destabilizer, for initiating small and large power slides. Also
helps car turn around unusually sharp short corners where no power slide
is needed.

Theory of Operation: Body roll and weight transfer from the two wheels
on one side to the other is much stronger, therefore lessening/breaking
rear wheel traction.

Instructions: Brake earlier than normal before the turn, if speed is
too high. If you do not brake earlier and braking is needed, there will
be no manoeuvring room for the pendulum. Keeping your speed neutral,
while still on the straight before the turn:
1. Quickly start to turn away from the turn

2. Immediately steer back into the actual turn.

3. If power slide is intended, apply sufficient throttle for wheel spin.

Notes: The more slippery the surface and higher the speed, the more
the effect. Hard to perform at lower speeds without a tighter steering
rack.


Scandinavian Flick
Applies To: All cars which are not equipped with automatic transmissions
nor ABS brakes.

Usage: Similar to pendulum, but only serves as destabilizer. Safer and
more appropriate to use at extremely slippery conditions.

Theory of Operation: Rear wheels are not given a chance to regain traction
after being locked up from the quick sudden rotation of the car.

Instructions: Instead of braking normally in a straight line:
1. Flick the car slightly away from the turn.

2. Immediately release throttle and Apply full braking (wheels must
lock) and clutch (or else the engine will stall). The car will now head
down the road in a sideways skid pointing away from the turn, decelerating.


3. Put shifter into appropriate gear and turn steering wheel all the
way in the direction of the upcoming turn.

4. As the turn arrives, let go of brakes. The car will slingshot into
the turn in the same was as if a pendulum was used. Let go of clutch
and get back on the throttle.
Notes: If you hesitate when first applying the brakes you may go off
the road or the front wheels may lock before the rear, making the car
aim itself back in the direction of travel.


RWD Power Slide
Applies To: RWD

Usage: Eliminate risk of fatal under steer on less than ideal roads,
resulting in higher cornering speeds.

Theory of Operation: Spinning rear tires have decreased lateral grip.


Instructions: If the engine power is sufficient to break traction simply
flick the car into the turn. Immediately apply enough throttle to break
traction while at the same time counter steering the car (newbies will
notice that if you do not do this at the same time as you apply the
throttle you will end up spinning out).
More throttle = More lateral tail slide, less forward propulsion.

Less throttle = Less lateral tail slide, more forward propulsion.
You must find the proper balance. The ideal is as little tail slide
as possible, just enough to stop it from regaining grip and under steering.

To stop sliding, back off throttle gently and apply opposite lock (relative
to the turn).
Notes: Stronger engine is easier to work with. Limited-slip or locked
differential is nearly a must-have for proper operation. It is possible
to use the end of a powerslide to pendulum into another, in the opposite
direction. Useful when going from one turn that leads directly into
the other. Theory of operation is the same as the final moments of the
scandinavian flick.


AWD Power Slide
Applies To: AWD

Usage: Eliminate risk of fatal under steer on less than ideal roads,
resulting in higher cornering speeds.

Theory of Operation: Spinning tires have decreased lateral grip.

Instructions: Destabilize the car. After having done so, stay on the
throttle.
More throttle = More sideways motion, less forward propulsion.

Less throttle = Less sideways motion, more forward propulsion.
Ideally the rotation of the car is perfect so it needs no adjustments
from the steering wheel - then it is merely kept straight. If adjustments
are needed, simply turn the steering wheel and use the throttle to adjust
cornering line.
You must find the proper balance. The ideal is sliding at an as angle
possible without regaining traction and under steering.
To stop sliding, counter-steer (relative to the turn). If needed, feather
throttle.
Notes: Stronger engine is easier to work with. Limited-slip or locked
centre and rear differential is nearly a must-have for proper operation.
It is possible to use the end of a powerslide to pendulum into another,
in the opposite direction. Useful when going from one turn that leads
directly into the other. Theory of operation is the same as the final
moments of the scandinavian flick.


Lift-Off Over Steer
Applies To: All drive trains.

Usage: Mid-bend adjustability. Induces over steer.

Theory of Operation: Deceleration from engine braking of vehicle causes
the mass/weight to load on the front wheels from the rear. The lighter
rear will have less traction than normal, thus less lateral traction.


Instructions: When turning, gradually or fully come off the throttle.


Notes: Does not work as well with automatics nor FWD. Many cars have
so much under steer built into them that this does not work. It is highly
dependant from car to car. RR and MR cars are particularly sensitive
to lift-off over steer. Many an accident has happened from an owner
of a high powered RWD car but without proper driving skills, lifting
off the throttle before or inside the turn, spinning out.


Parking/Hand Brake Turn
Applies To: FWD, RWD, AWD without limited-slip/locked centre differential,
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII

Usage: Turning the car around very tight hairpins and turns, even on
dry pavement. Destabilizer.

Theory of Operation: The hand brake is connected to rear wheels only.
Applying the hand brake will cause instant loss of traction in the rear,
making the rear slide out.

Instructions: If in a RWD or AWD, press clutch pedal until release of
hand brake.
For super tight turn: Turn the steering wheel half a rotation in the
turn direction and apply hand brake for as long as you wish to rotate.
Ideally the car should nearly stop moving all together by the time you
are done rotating. Let go of hand brake slightly ahead of the time you
wish to stop rotating. The higher the speed, and the more slippery it
is, the harder to stop the rotation.
For destabilizing: Turn the steering wheel half a rotation in the turn
direction and apply hand brake for a brief moment - only enough to cause
sideway sliding of the rear wheels. Then re-engage clutch and come on
the throttle.
Notes: Works very well (and should never be used other than) at low
speeds. AWD cars with a centre limited-slip or locked differential will
also lock up the front wheels when applying the handbrake. Lancer Evolution
VII has a computer controlled hydro-electric clutch that automatically
disengages any locking when hand brake is applied.


Careful Clutch-Stab
Applies To: RWD and AWD with manual transmission.

Usage: Low speed destabilizer.

Theory of Operation: Sudden overpowering of wheels causes wheel spin.


Instructions: Press clutch pedal, come off throttle and start turning.
Match revs to speed, then let go of clutch quickly while applying (depending
on engine power output) a lot of throttle.

Notes: Useful when having braked too late for a scandinavian flick or
pendulum, especially on AWD drive trains.


Quick Clutch-Stab
Applies To: RWD and AWD with manual transmission.

Usage: Low speed destabilizer.

Theory of Operation: Revs of engine will quickly rise when clutch is
disengaged, and will suddenly overpower the wheels when re-engaged causing
wheel spin.

Instructions: While turning, apply throttle and stomp the clutch pedal
once quickly.

Notes: Useful when having braked too late for a scandinavian flick or
pendulum, especially on AWD drive trains.