Ruff_RydeRR je napisal/-a:infiniti nosilci pomoje niso ker če so nosilci pol bi mašino samo en x zabilo ne pa da kr posakuje (zato ker tiščiš na gas in so nosilci na ful našponani)
jst bi laično reku kkšni fedri/amortizerji pa pomoje pomaga če maš nizkoprofilne gume tko kmečka logika
Lahko pobrskaš po internetu "wheel hop". Stvar je v temu da motor pri takšnem speljevenju začne zabijat naprej nazaj ker ni dovolj statičen in se sunki prenesejo na gumo ki nenehno dobiva in gubi trakcijo. Seveda imajo amortizerji tudi vlogo pri vsemu pa vendar lep primer; vsaj dva prijatelja; eden vozi hondo civic, drugi pa Renault megane sta imela takšen problem, kljub vgrajenim športnim amortizerjem - ko sta dala trše nosilce in vpetje motorja so zadeve popolnoma izginile in avto samo zažge gumo. -Frenda oba dregata vsak petek in soboto v ZG in sta člana uradnega street race kluba "brzina"; bosta skupaj z drugimi člani zopet na uradnem SR tekmovanju v Velikoj Gorici drug vikend
Evo strokovnejše razlage - upam da je vse jasno sedaj:
"The suspension and engine are connected to the rest of the car with flexible, rubber bushings and mounts. This flex kills vibrations, but it also produces a secondary, unwanted, oscillatory mechanical system. Normally, this system isn't acted on in such a way that it oscillates. When launching, with front wheel drive cars, the weight transfers to the rear of the car, reducing traction in the front. As the front tires break traction, the forces on the suspension and engine also change, setting them into motion. When the tires grab again, the forces change back the other way, now applied to a system already in motion. Now we have an oscillating force applied to an oscillating system, much like a hitting a paddleball. If you apply force to the paddle to match the natural frequency of the ball attached to the elastic string, you can keep that system going all day. With wheel hop, the motion of the system feeds back to the wheels, causing the oscillating force to sync up with it. This will also go on all day (until you reduce throttle or the transmission falls apart). The solution is to reduce the flex in the rubber band-like motor mounts(nosilci motorja) and suspension bushings(silen bloki)"
Če ne želite kupovati cele nove pliuretanske nosilce si lahko pomagate s posebnim polnilom na takšen način - pa tudi preverjeno izvrstno odpravlja težavo z poskakovanjem gume pri naglem speljevanju:
"Windo Weld is a cheap way to convert the flimsy stock mounts (referred to as roll stops in the manual) into solid ones. This cuts wheel hop and protects the mounts from premature wear, and more importantly the transmission. The stock mounts have huge gaps, which allow the center of the mount to move up and down excessively. Windo Weld is a soft,rubbery polyurethane that closely matches the consistency of the rubber part of the mount, and is a perfect way to fill those gaps.
Do this in thin layers if you want to drive the car a few hours later. Otherwise pack it full of Windo Weld and wait 24 hours before you drive the car. That is what we do. The outside looks dry, but the inside remains uncured for quite some time. Thin layers of less than 1/4" thick should cure in about 3 hours each. A heat gun speeds up the curing process, but too much heat will cause a volcanic bubbling effect, ruining the job. Do one mount at a time - you can remove either the front or rear mount without supporting the engine, but I recommend not removing both."
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stock nosilec
filanje:
gotova zadeva:

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2000 Hyundai Coupe 2.0 → 2003 Hyundai Coupe 2.0 → 1999 BMW 740i → 2009 BMW 530d M
→ 2010 Škoda Superb TDI → 2008 Renault Laguna Coupe GT 2.0T → 2016 KIA Sportage CRDi → 2021 KIA Xceed 1.5 T-gdi